A Weekend of Adventure!

The past three days have been such an adventure! Jessi and I set out around 5:00 am on Thursday morning, headed to one of the many bus stations to travel from San Jose to Liberia, a town in the northwestern Guanacaste province. While we had the names of the streets comprising the intersection at which the bus station was located, it was helpful that the taxi driver knew exactly which one housed the direct bus to Liberia. Our bus pulled out shortly after six, and we had a four and a half hour drive through the countryside of Costa Rica. 

We arrived in Liberia mid-morning and, after asking many not-so-helpful workers at the bus station and local shops, we found our way to Hospedaje Dodero, located only a couple blocks from the bus station. Owned by a man originally from Indiana, the hostel was fairly small (it slept about 14-15 people) but nice. The owner was friendly but didn't seem to enthused about the Annexation of Guanacaste Day festivities, so it was up to Jessi and me to explore the town on our own. We had a delicious and cheap meal (we hadn't eaten too much breakfast, but it was nearly lunchtime, so I suppose it was brunch) at a local soda. Per usual, it consisted of the traditional rice and beans dish gallo pinto, fried eggs, and a homemade tortilla. Also per usual, I ordered cafe con leche. A little bit of coffee and a hearty meal after an early morning of traveling makes an immense difference. I could instantly see our attitudes change for the better as we consumed each scrumptious bite. 

I wish I had taken a photograph of every time I was served gallo pinto while I was here. Not so much to count the number of times I have had it, but more to show the variety of styles in which it is prepared. Often it will be made with black beans, but every once in a while it will contain red beans instead. My host mom prepares it with Lizano, a staple sauce here that adds a unique, spicy but not fiery flavor to dishes. Others prepare it with cilantro or other herbs. I think there are as many ways to prepare gallo pinto as there are people! Personally, I like the red bean and cilantro version topped with Lizano. Jessi and I joke that we are addicted to the Lizano sauce. It is infinitely superior to ketchup but can be used in many of the same ways, such as dipping chicken, adding flavor in cooking, and dressing potatoes. I am really hoping I can find it back home! 

After eating, we waited for several minutes for our check to be delivered to our table, only to find out we had to ask to pay and that the "check" was only a verbalization of the cost. Jessi and I mused that, even after nearly two months in this country, we still didn't know how to pay the bill. Oops. 

Next we walked about a mile to the exposition grounds, which look very similar to American fairgrounds: fried fair food, overpriced carnival rides, vendors offering everything from television remotes to brand new, expensive Toyota tricks, and beer. Lots and lots of beer. They love their beer here. A good majority of it is Imperial, the national brand, but there are a few imported varieties as well. I personally do not care for beer (I am a fruity mixed drink kind of girl--I love a good piña colada here!) so I settled for some cold soda instead to refresh myself. The sun was beating down on us, and between Jessi and myself, we could have easily sweat gallons from our bodies. We walked around the grounds for a while and realized nothing was happening until later in the evening. 

On our walk back to the hostel, we spotted the parade we had been told about: girls and boys, sometimes as young as three or four years old, were dressed up in either typical dancing outfits or plaid blouses and seated upon horses for the cabellistas parade. I don't know how the kids didn't sweat to death in the heavy clothing; I was wearing a tank top and shorts and having a difficult time!

I looked out of place among the traditional outfits.

The sweet father had his daughter pose for me!

Traditional dancers!

Saw this little fellow on our walk through town.

Back at our hostel, we showered off and took a nap before the evening festivities. Luckily our room had air conditioning (quite the perk for the price we paid!) and we took a quality siesta. Also staying at our hostel was a group of nine students from Heredia, whom Jessi had met last weekend at a large hostel in Puerto Viejo. We also ran into others who recognized her at the fairgrounds later that night!

Back at the fair, we enjoyed a meal of fajita vegetables and meat served over yuca (a tuber very similar to potatoes) and cabbage. Both Jessi and I thoroughly enjoyed the meal. I was ecstatic that it was not chicken! Although I typically prefer chicken or turkey to red meat, my mama tica only really serves chicken because one of my roommates doesn't care for red meat. However, I do like some ground beef in spaghetti sauce or some barbequed pulled pork every once in a while. I have already put in a request for my mom's crockpot spaghetti sauce when I return home, because it is thick and chock full of vegetables, my favorite! I cannot deny the greatness of Mama Tica's cooking though. I have yet to have a bad meal, and she offers us plenty of fruits and vegetables, which, unfortunately, cannot be said about all of the host parents here. 

Post dinner we watched a typical festival event, the Corredoro de Toros, or the running of the bulls. It was interesting, because I had not seen anything like that before: man vs. bull. A few years ago, while on a mission trip to New Mexico, I saw dozens of men on bulls running together during a Native American festival, but there was no intentional prodding and poking done like there was on Thursday night. While it was quite the show, I still haven't decided whether I enjoyed it or not. Yes, I enjoyed being there with Jessi and dozens of other locals and tourists, but the animals were miserable and one man was trampled. Not exactly my idea of a good time.

Jessi and me watching the running of the bulls.

The bulls were running so fast it was difficult to capture a good snapshot.

Friday morning we were able to sleep in, since we didn't have a bus to catch until 12:30. We feasted on another typical breakfast at a local soda, and then stopped at the grocery store to pick up provisions for the next two days. It was a good thing we did, since Bijagua, our next destination, was a hamlet, if it could be classified as any sort of town. Our best find was a local fruit stand where we purchased a pineapple (3/1000 colones or $2), a mango, a tomato, and 3 bananas for only about $2 total. In my sister Valerie's words, "That puts the dollar menu to shame!" Indeed it does. Much better quality too. I will miss $0.65 pineapple when I am home.

One dollar's worth of fruit! Beats the dollar menu any day!

We stayed at Rio Celeste Backpackers Hostel last night, one of the few hostels close to our destination of Rio Celeste. Jessi had found it by looking through blogs, and Trip Advisor and Hostel World confirmed the positive review of that particular blogger. I would agree with the author, as we were treated well, the hostel was adorable and comfortable, and we had a very pleasant experience there. When we arrived in Bijagua, it was drizzling, so we cozied up and watched an old movie with a cup of coffee. I fell asleep, as usually happens during movies these days, but before we knew it, dinner time had crept up on us. The hostel had a charming kitchen, which I of course failed to photograph, and Jessi and I cooked quesadillas made with refried beans premixed with Lizano and our tomato. We added more Lizano for dipping too. I think we may have an addiction! In any case there are many worse things we could have cravings for, so I don't worry about it.

Hostel signage. 

We discovered a (nearly complete) deck of old playing cards in the living room post-dinner. Most paper things here are similar in nature: damp, sticky, and a little bit dirty from the open air lifestyle most Costa Ricans embrace. So, while we attempted to play the fast paced game Spit, it was a bit tough due to the condition of our cards. Still, it was fun to reminisce on our similar childhoods comprised of rounds upon rounds of Spit. Another woman at the hostel offered for the three of us to play Scrabble on her iPad, and we eagerly took her up on the offer. We had expected there to be more of a town to explore, so Jessi and I found ourselves slightly bored once it became dark outside. 

Yesterday morning, my birthday morning, we had breakfast prepared for us by the owners of the hostel: another variety of gallo pinto accompanied by scrambled eggs, a small piece of freshly fried cheese, kiwi-flavored drinkable yogurt (there are many varieties of the beverage here), and coffee. I was grateful for the substantial breakfast because we were hiking through the mud for about two hours.

Pre-Hike in our Pitt Gear!

To get to Parque Nacional Tenorio Volcán was an adventure in and of itself. The drive began with a cranky car, driven by the owner of our hostel. It took several tries to start the engine, but eventually he was able to get it going. The trip was about nine kilometers, 95% on gravel road, so it took a half an hour to travel only about five or six miles! Part of me wished I had just run to the national park, as it was basically a straight shot there. On the return trip home, we were lucky to spot some howler monkeys. The dad was incredibly loud (the only animal whose sound can reach a farther distance is some type of whale), and the mom was cuddling her young baby. 

The hike through the forest was a lot of fun. Jessi and I got really muddy, really fast. It rained a little bit during the day yesterday, but apparently there had been significant downpours the two days prior. The most beautiful sight we saw was the waterfall, or catarata. It was rushing over the edge of the cliff into perfectly blue water. Unlike a lot of seemingly blue waters, the water in Rio Celeste is actually blue! Allow the nerd in me to explain: the volcano emits sulfuric substances which combine with calcium carbonate to create the light blue color. Unlike many natural wonders in Costa Rica, Rio Celeste is a fairly well kept secret, which I personally think made it much more pleasant and more adventurous.

Jessi and me at the waterfall! It was 250 steps down!

Perhaps the most gorgeous sight I have seen yet!

Tenedoro: This is the place where the rivers meet;
one is blue, and one is clearly not!

After hiking we had lunch and some coffee before departing for the bus station. Well, I suppose it was more like a bus hut--a small tin overhang on the side of the street--but it sufficed, because the bus picked us up! While we waited, Jessi treated me to a Trits ice cream sandwich from the dairy giant Dos Pinos for my birthday. So sweet of her! It was delicious, and I will definitely be indulging in more before I return to the states. The five hour bus ride home was not as hot and sticky as some in the past, for which I was truly appreciative. 

Although there was neither family nor cake--only friends and ice cream, sweet bread, and chocolate--this will certainly be a birthday to remember! It's not every year that I turn twenty years old in a foreign country seeing gorgeous sights and making memories to last a lifetime!
One last picture for the day: Jessi and I went to the "Feria del Agricultor" (farmer's market) in Zapote, the next town over, this morning, and were positively overwhelmed by the quantity and diversity of the produce there. Since I am only responsible for making my own lunches and snacks, I was limited in terms of the amount of produce I could purchase. In reality I wanted to buy so much more, as the prices were great and quality was superb. I settled for a bag of green beans (about 3 huge handfuls) for 200 colones (40 cents), a pineapple for 500 colones ($1), 5 small tomatoes for 50 colones (10 cents) each, and 2 gigantic carrots for 450 colones (90 cents). So, for under $3 US, I have an abundance of fruit and veggies for the week. So excited!

Just perusing the bananas.
I could have bought two bunches (about a dozen small
bananas in each) for 500 colones, or one dollar!

Time is Flying By!

I am seriously slacking on my blogposts lately. I should be writing about my adventures, the great food I am eating, the people I am meeting, and, most importantly, the plethora of new things I am learning! But alas, time slips between my fingers more and more quickly each day. Additionally, I should apologize for the lack of photos, but I sometimes forget my camera, and friends are slow in posting them to Facebook. Someday I will try to post them! It is difficult to believe that I have been here for 7.5 weeks already, which is 75% of my time here in Costa Rica. But, at the same time, I am getting very excited to return to the states, to see my family and friends, to return to my normal routine, and to no longer be a guest. With that being said, however, I have had an amazing experience here and have grown so much. 

Last weekend (July 12/13) was spent doing a few different things. Friday I traveled about a half hour to Heredia, a city north of San Jose, where my father's longtime friend Joan lives. Joan's late husband Arturo worked with Dad in Montreal, and they retired here in the early 1990's. Joan and I were able to have a lengthy conversation about Costa Rican culture and my experiences here over a lunch at an authentic Costa Rican restaurant about a block from her home. Even though had never met Joan before that day, I was blessed to have the opportunity to talk with such a wise woman! She had great advice for my nursing career (she retired in 1992 after decades of nursing) and we were able to talk about some of the various happenings in the Church, as she is a very devout Catholic.

Joan and me

The following day, I woke up very early (about 4:30am) to go white water rafting. One of my father's former co-workers is native to Costa Rica and put me in touch with his brother Adolfo. Adolfo and his wife graciously offered to take me white water rafting on the Pacuare River. The Pacuare is located on the eastern side of the county and is ranked as one of the top ten commercial rafting rivers in the world! We went through Class III and Class IV rapids. The highest is Class VI, which is a straight drop waterfall. Needless to say we went through some turbulent waters! 

We left San Jose around 5:30 and arrived at base camp around 8:00 for a typical Costa Rican breakfast of gallo pinto, some of the best scrambled eggs I have ever had, potatoes, and more fruit than I could eat! And I mustn't forget the coffee too! Then we traveled another hour to the starting point on the Pacuare. We rafted for approximately three hours before stopping for lunch, which the guides had packed for us: sandwiches, veggies, fresh pineapple and watermelon, and chips, guacamole, and refried beans. Then we hopped back in our rafts for another hour and a half to finish our eighteen mile trip on the river. By the end of the day I was both exhausted and soaked. I hadn't expected anything less though, really, since I had volunteered to sit in the front of the boat. On the way home, after changing into dry clothing and getting a warm beverage, I slept very well. It was a splendid day full of adventure, and I am looking forward to doing more white water rafting and other adventure sports in the future! I really enjoy things like that including rock climbing, ropes courses, and hiking. Unfortunately, I have no photos to post yet. 

This past weekend was spent in Manuel Antonio, one of the most popular tourist attractions in Costa Rica. Two parts of this beach town make it so appealing to foreigners: the beautiful beach with great waves and the biologically diverse national park. I personally preferred the park over the beach, but most others preferred the beach more. (Personally, I still have yet to become accustomed to the saltiness of the water! I miss my freshwater Great Lakes!) 

To travel to Manuel Antonio, we took the public bus (there are buses to everywhere for relatively cheap!), which was slightly over three hours. We arrived in Manuel Antonio, and were dropped off at the Manuel Antonio Backpackers Hostel. Despite asking our bus driver if this was the correct hostel (there are two backpackers in the town), we were left at the wrong one. When we inquired at the hostel, the man only replied, "Pura Vida!" as we went on our way. Not helpful, sir, not helpful. We started to walk the two kilometers to the correct location when we decided to flag down a taxi. In retrospect that was a very wise decision, as the man in the hostel underestimated the two kilometer walk. My best guess is that it was in the ballpark of two miles, and we all had our luggage with us! 

Eventually we arrived at the correct hostel, National Park Backpackers Manuel Antonio. We settled in, then set out for Quepos, the larger town nearby where we needed to purchase our bus tickets for Sunday's return trip. While in Quepos, we also purchased provisions at the grocery store for lunch. My friend Lauren and I split the makings of veggie sandwiches and pineapple. A whole pineapple only cost us 690 colones (about $1.38 USD). I wish the fruit were that cheap in the United States. I could easily live off of it!

So. Much. Pineapple.

We spent the afternoon hiking in the national park, where we spotted two sloths, dozens of monkeys--three different species: spider, white-faced capuchins, and howler, deer, raccoons, agoutis, and many different insects and birds. I love seeing these animals in the wild! Definitely don't see monkeys or sloths just chilling out in the trees back in Michigan or Pittsburgh!

Saturday night was an early-to-bed kind of night. We had a relatively early dinner since the park closed at 4:00, and then it poured around 7:00. I fell asleep shortly after 8:00 while reading, and slept until about 7:00 the next morning. I appreciated the extra sleep! We were in dorm beds, so it was not exactly the best sleep, but more sleep than I get on an average night...about 50% more!
Sunday morning we ate breakfast at a small hotel called Loma Linda. They offered a huge breakfast for only two mil (about $4 US). First we had coffee, fruit, and a pancake. Bananas, watermelon, papaya, and pineapple were cut neatly into slices for us to enjoy. I have learned the art of adding bananas to oatmeal and pancakes, and I love it! Something I will definitely do once I am back home, although I am certain the bananas will not taste nearly as good. I am so spoiled by the fruit in this country! After we finished that, the server brought out another large plate, this time piled high with gallo pinto, scrambled eggs, and fresh, warm white bread: the typical Costa Rican breakfast. I have a feeling I will be eating a lot of rice and beans this fall, since it is quick, healthy, and cheap. I actually think I will miss the Costa Rican staple! However, there are definitely some foods from home that I am craving here. One is spaghetti with real spaghetti sauce. My mama tica makes pasta a few times a week, but the sauce is very watery and nothing like my real mom's homemade sauce that simmers in the crock-pot all day long with lots of tomatoes, onions, mushrooms, and ground meat. I also miss a simple bowl of cold cereal and milk. Perhaps that comes from being a ¨Kellogg's Kid¨, or maybe I just being able to prepare my own breakfast. It is such an adjustment to be served breakfast and dinner every day. Growing up, Valerie and I loved cooking dinner, and that is something I really have missed while being abroad.
We spent Sunday morning at the public beach in Manuel Antonio, jumping waves and getting tan. For many of my friends, it was their last weekend here, because their session was only eight weeks. It was likely my last trip to the Pacific coast here as well. It was a relaxing morning, and we left for San Jose early that afternoon.
Monday night, back in San Jose, was one of my friend´s 20th birthday. A group of us went to the Pie Factory to celebrate, and I had strawberry cream pie. Unfortunately the nut-free options were limited, but I was still very pleased with my choice. It was great fun to hang out for a couple hours on a ¨school night¨ and enjoy each other's company, since the majority of them leave this weekend.

Happy Birthday, Lauren!

Yesterday I traveled to an indigenous reservation my Tropical Medicine class. We visited the Quitirrisí tribe, which is located about an hour northwest of San Jose. We spent the morning learning about various plants used for healing, the different aspects of the Quitirrisí culture, and received a blessing from their shaman. They also fed us a traditional "sandwich", which consisted of corn tortillas, eggs, and beans wrapped in a banana leaf. It was delicious!

Two of my classmates, Emily and Meghan, and me 

The ceremonial fire

Don Juan, the shaman, explaining one of the rituals

Tasting freshly squeezed sugar cane

Traditional eggs and beans sandwich

Speaking of this weekend, it is about to be an adventure! Tomorrow is a holiday here which celebrates the annexation (or addition) of the Guanacaste province to Costa Rica in the 1850s. The province really wanted to be a part of this country, and there are huge celebrations, especially in Liberia, the largest city in Guanacaste. My friend Jessie (who also happens to attend the University of Pittsburgh, though we did not know each other before coming down here) and I will travel to Liberia to attend the celebrations. We will spend the night in a hostel there and travel to Rio Celeste on Friday afternoon. We will spend Saturday morning hiking in Rio Celeste, which is renowned for its beautiful waters. I am hoping to get some great pictures!

¡Pura Vida! The Journey to an Authentic Life

¡Pura Vida! is the common phrase here in Costa Rica, and it means so many things. Sometimes hotel workers will say it to tourists reminding us to enjoy our time in the country. Professors will use it as an excuse when they arrive late for class due to "Tico Time". Students can be heard proclaiming the phrase when they love an experience such as seeing a sloth for the first time or after ziplining. Proper translation of the words pura vida is actually "pure life", and I have come to find that the Costa Rican approach to a "pure life" is one I would like to gradually adopt, even as I return to the United States in just a few short weeks.
While "pura vida" is a catchphrase here, I have found myself adapting to this Costa Rican way of life, slowly melding its attributes with those of my own lifestyle. In general, the Costa Rican population is much more laid back: Tico Time, for example, is common, and they are not in a rush to check everything off a gigantic to-do list. Dinners are longer, and time with family is relished. I have yet to notice fierce competition for high grades or exorbitant earnings. While I am sure those phenomena do exist, I have had the luxury of experiencing the calmer side of life in Costa Rica. In addition, I am not nearly as busy here as I am in the United States. I juggle classes, a job, club cross country, and both attend and lead a bible study at the University of Pittsburgh, and I always seem to be rushing from one activity to the next. While here in Costa Rica, I have had the opportunity to sit back, reflect, and become more self-aware than I have ever been. It has honestly been one of the most liberating experiences of my life thus far.
There are a few specific discoveries I have made while here in Costa Rica, and while I am sad it has taken me nearly twenty years (yes, I celebrate two decades of life next Saturday!) to realize these things, I am glad I realized them now rather than even later down the road. I have realized that I need to live a pure, authentic life.
What exactly does an "authentic life" mean? Not to go terribly deep into philosophical thought on a blog reserved for my adventures here in Costa Rica, I will provide you with a short description of how I interpret the authentic life. An authentic life is one lived without fear of the unknown. For years and years, I lived by the rule "better safe than sorry". And while that is appropriate in many situations, (for example when it comes to forgoing the bakery cake because of the potential presence of life-threatening allergens, no matter how much my sweet tooth is kicking in) taking chances, testing limits, and exploring are a normal, natural part of life. They are part of the experience, part of what makes each person unique.
For years and years, I have lived in fear of failure, in fear of developing ailments such as cancer or heart disease, and in fear of upsetting others. In reality though, failure is part of the process to achieve success. Thomas Edison tested thousands of ways to make a lightbulb before he figured it out. Cancer and heart disease, while certain habits can aid in their development, cannot be altogether prevented simply by a healthy diet and regular physical activity; genetics, over which I have absolutely no control, play an enormous part as well. And upsetting others, well, that is their choice. Obviously that does not mean I will no longer have any respect for the opinions and lives of others; rather, it means that I will approach my life in terms of what will make me happy and allow me to thrive, and use those things (rather than what other people suggest) to help others. Someone once told me that God puts desires in our hearts in order for us to help others. I really like that. God gives us the longing to pursue certain paths--such as becoming a nurse or having children--in order to best serve the world. I had never really thought about it in that perspective before, but I believe it fully.
What my time in Costa Rica has helped me see is that I do not need to be an uptight, strictly ordered, industrious person 24 hours a day, 7 days a week in order to be happy, in order to make a difference, in order to be of value. Coming to a foreign country where I did not know the language (although I would like to say it is much better now!), did not eat the same foods, had a vastly different lifestyle, and knew absolutely no one was terrifying at first. I was very homesick, and while I still do miss home and the associated creature comforts there, I have developed an independent lifestyle and determined how to best balance myself for these ten weeks.
In the beginning of my time here, I would chastise myself for drinking coffee and taking lengthy naps just to get through the day. But those were what I needed at the time; as an introvert, constantly meeting new people and speaking a different language was positively exhausting. I came to realize that I should not be ashamed of what I needed, but simply recognize and appreciate that those attributes are what make me ME! Now I get up at 5:30 to run every morning, enjoy my coffee, and take naps if that is what my body is asking for. I go out some nights, but no longer feel guilty about staying in because I am simply too tired or want a break. I have come to embrace trying new things (salsa and merengue dancing, for example) and living a looser lifestyle. Not every moment is planned out anymore, but I enjoy that! I have begun to obtain a sense of freedom I never knew existed!
Learning to live without fear is something I have begun to do and will continue to strive for as I finish my time in Costa Rica and head back home. But that is not all that I have learned here. I have realized, through my struggles to adjust here, that my independence is a strength I possess. This ability to survive, even when I am struggling, is impressive, and I can use this to fuel future goals. I always wanted to travel, to learn Spanish, to be me. Now, in a foreign country 2,000 miles from home, I am finally realizing those dreams. All by myself. I made it happen. My ability to overcome the initial culture shock, language barrier, and other differences have increased my confidence level significantly. I do not doubt myself nearly as much as in the past, and I take pride in what I do instead of trying to hide in embarrassment. I embrace being me.
The confidence I have gained over the past six and a half weeks has inspired me to pursue other goals, rather than saying "someday I will do this" or "once I graduate, I will do that", because we all know that I would probably continue to push off those goals, and they may or may not actually be accomplished. Realistically I know I cannot attack every single bucket list item at once (yes, the practical side of me is coming out!), but I also know I do not need a college degree to make great things happen. Many famous people have showed us that. I have proved that I can multitask, so why not multitask while pursuing my dreams? Some of my dreams are to run a marathon, to have a family, and to travel to every continent. But honestly, those are not all entirely practical right now.
I believe that one of my goals, however, is attainable right now with some dedication and hard work. I have always dreamed of owning a bakery, café, or restaurant, and with an abundance of locally owned sodas (restaurants), panaderías (bakeries), and other family businesses here in Costa Rica, I have been inspired to make my dreams a reality. I have seen many people I know back in the states also have success in their small-business ventures, and I cannot help but ask, "Why not me? Why not now?" Thus, my bakery was born.
In my free time here, I have been brainstorming dozens of ideas for my vision of The Bread Factory (disclaimer: this name may or may not change). The emphasis of my bakery would be on allowing patrons to customize their bread in terms of its flour (whole wheat, white, etc.), flavoring (banana, pumpkin, or zucchini, anyone?), mix-ins (such as chocolate chips or sun-dried tomatoes), and toppings (including chocolate drizzle and sea salt with cracked pepper) in order to create the perfect loaf for any occasion. Although the details are nowhere near finalized, look for more information to come in the near future about what will happen with my bread shop once I am back stateside.
So, despite the fact that I still have three and a half weeks in this beautiful country, I would like to take the opportunity to say, "Thank you, Costa Rica! You have helped me to love life and to love myself. You have helped to give me the courage and confidence to pursue my dreams."
And since we all know you probably clicked on this hoping to see recent photos, here is one of my new housemates, Rosie and Raina, and me! During our break from class, we took the opportunity to take and have coffee together!

Rosemary, me, and Raina!

Parte Dos (Part 2)

As promised, here is the next segment of my past week. 

Last week, Caroline, Valerie, and I spent Monday afternoon hiking to the crater lake of Cerro Chato, Volcán Arenal's smaller, dormant next-door neighbor. The trail map promised a difficult four hour hike, and that was true. We spent about 3 1/2 hours climbing up and back down through some very rugged terrain: enormous, toe-tripping roots, a whole lot of dirt, slippery mud, and gigantic rocks. Not to mention that when we arrived at the top, we had layers upon layers of sweat, sunscreen, and dirt. But it was definitely worth it! The view from above the crater lake was absolutely stunning, and when we made the 300 meter descent down to the lake, we could not believe how breathtaking the sight was. It was certainly one of the highlights of the week with my sisters. After hiking that small volcano, I now have the itch to do some more rock climbing back in the States or more hiking!

A mile uphill!

From the top of the volcano.

At the lakeshore.

Nice and sweaty. 

Tuesday was a day of travel: Arenal to Monteverde, from one tourist destination to another! At the suggestion of Rita and Steve, we opted for the "taxi-boat-taxi" option to travel from Point A to Point B. Although it was deemed the "quickest" route, it still took us 6 hours. First we were picked up at the lodge and transported by minibus (similar to our full-size vans) to the boat in Lake Arenal. There was no dock at the edge of Lake Arenal, simply a shoreline with many boats to take passengers from one end to the other. The boat ride took about an hour, and the view was beautiful. Luckily it was early in the morning and not raining yet! The most unfortunate part of the taxi-boat-taxi option was the hour and a half wait we had at the edge of the lake once we arrived on the other side. We were waiting for another minibus to pick us up and transport the sixteen boat passengers to Monteverde, but the buses took forever to come. Luckily we were able to get out of the boat and walk around a little bit. I was getting seriously hungry though! Combined with hot and tired, we were all a bit cranky.

View of Arenal and Cerro Chato from the boat.

Climbing rocks while we waited for the minibuses.

Stilling waiting: Planning out the next few days. 

Finally the minibuses arrived, and we continued on our expedition to Monteverde. This part of the trip was perhaps the most exciting, as it was two hours on gravel (and that's putting it nicely!) roads at a maximum speed of about 25 kilometers per hour (about 15-16 miles per hour for you non-metrics out there)! Sitting in the back of the minibus without air-conditioning was both bumpy and sultry. My shirt looked like I had just gone for a run, when in fact I had been sitting for two hours! Halfway through the drive, we stopped at a local restaurant, and Valerie, Caroline, and I treated ourselves to Dos Pinos ice cream bars. So yummy! The taste of happy cows' dairy products is so nice. Nothing like the factory farm dairies in the United States.

We finally arrived in Monteverde at our charming eco-lodge, Arco Iris Lodge. The name "arco iris" means "rainbow". Coincidentally, Caroline's friend from University of Michigan, Beth, was staying at Arco Iris as well, as she and her church group had spent a week in the southern portion of Costa Rica working on a Habitat for Humanity project. It was a great way for the two of them to spend some time together! We also took advantage of Beth and her parents' knowledge of the area to determine our itinerary for Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday in Monteverde.

Breakfast at Arco Iris, including eggs laid onsite,
fried sweet plantains, fresh mango and pineapple,
and of course, gallo pinto and bananas!

Que lindo! (How cute!)

With the guidance of Beth's family, we opted out of the night tour Tuesday evening, as it was likely going to rain and the animals they had been promised to encounter the previous night were not seen. Instead, we had a leisurely seafood dinner and an early night. Wednesday morning was spent at Curi-Cancha, a relatively new wildlife reserve in Monteverde that only allows sixty visitors a day to preserve the wildlife. While there, we were guided by Grevien through many layers of the forest. Like in Arenal, our guide pointed out various plants, animals, and birds. The previous day Beth and her family had seen the coveted quetzal, the national bird of Guatemala, so Caroline decided she needed to see one too! I personally wanted to encounter a sloth. Our first sighting of the day was a group of several spider monkeys (more than a half dozen!) who entertained us for over thirty minutes in the trees above us. Apparently the spider monkeys are rather elusive in that particular reserve, so it was a rare treat to have such a show!

Entrance to Curi-Cancha

Looking up a Ficus tree--
new trees plant their roots on an older tree,
depriving it of nutrients, and eventually it dies,
leaving a hole in the middle!

Look at that acrobatic monkey!

Adorable family!

For the next few hours, we spotted various birds, agoutis (similar to the coatis), and learned about the various plants throughout the cloud forest. Grevien and his fellow guides continued to search for the quetzals, because they knew some had nests close to our path. Finally, they saw not one, but two! The quetzal is probably the most beautiful bird I have ever seen! Like the spider monkey exhibition, we were blessed to see the bird because despite its symbolism throughout Latin America, most natives have yet to spot the bird.

The prized quetzal!

After reading about our wonderful sightings in the Curi-Cancha Reserve, you are probably left wondering: What exactly makes a cloud forest a cloud forest? Read this to find out!

Only a few hundred meters from the Curi-Cancha Reserve, the Monteverde Cheese Factory was located, and as you will soon learn, it was a necessity to go, as the Cheese Factory is such an integral part of Monteverde's history. In 1948, a group of Quakers from Fairhope, Alabama (not too far from Gulf Shores), left the United States rather than be jailed for their failure to join the draft for the Vietnam War and farmed dairy cattle in what is now Monteverde. In 1953, the families began producing cheese, and other non-Quaker farms joined as well. The first cheese produced by the Quakers was a variety of gouda, but now there are 17 different varieties! They also produce a wide selection of ice creams, which we thoroughly enjoyed! The Monteverde Cheese Factory is in a tight competition with the Michigan State University Dairy Store!

#alltheflavors
coffee, coconut, rum with raisins,
sweetened condensed milk, and chocolate chip

Wednesday afternoon was spent at El Trapiche, a coffee, sugar, and, more recently, a cocoa plantation in Monteverde. Although the operation isn't as big as the Don Juan version, the area's #1 tour, we had heard rave reviews from Beth and her group about El Trapiche. I happen to agree with their group: the tour given to us by Diego, one of the young adult sons of the owners, was fabulous. He had a genuine sense of humor and kept the audience engaged for over two hours as he led us through the process of making coffee, sugar, and chocolate.

Our engaging tour guide, Diego

Grinding the coffee beans!

Diego explaining some of the equipment.

Diego's father working "el trapiche",
the machine that presses the juice out of the sugar cane.

As an avid coffee drinker, I was very excited to visit El Trapiche, and I learned so much about the coffee process. If you're interested, I invite you to read more about the process! We had the opportunity to try cocoa seeds after they were dried and after roasting. Both were very bitter, but had the cocoa flavor. The best part was when Diego mixed in powdered sugar! Making sugar was a fun process to learn about too. We tasted raw sugar cane--yum!--and also hot, boiled sugar cane. We made our own coffee flavored candy as well. At one point while walking throughout the plantation, Diego stopped and told us that he often saw sloths in the nearby trees. We looked up, and there, right before our eyes, was a sleeping sloth! We could not see his face (or maybe it was a her!) but he was adorable. See sloth: check! Monkeys, quetzals, and sloths in the same day: wow! At the end of the tour, Diego's mother prepared us picadillo de arracache, a traditional wedding food, and coffee. Yum!

Diego's mother preparing us fresh coffee!

Diego offering us picadillo de arracache. 

Dad picked the restaurant for dinner, El Trio, which advertised its menu as "eclectic Latin American cuisine". We shared an avocado, heart of palm, and tomato tower as an appetizer and then I had a goat cheese and arugula stuffed chicken breast, accompanied by sweetly sauced vegetables. We topped off the evening by sharing a mango split (mango sorbet, vanilla ice cream, and chopped fresh mango in a crispy shell) and arroz con leche. One of the best dinners I have had while here! Perhaps the highlight of the dinner, though, was when everyone in the restaurant quickly ran to the deck railing to watch a three-limbed (yes, only three!) sloth swinging himself across telephone wires. Grevien had told us we could see sloths there, and it surprised me how fast he moved!

Avocado, tomato, and heart of palm tower

My dinner tasted way better than it looks!

Mango Split

Arroz con Leche

Our morning activity on Thursday was a "canopy tour". Canopy tours, or ziplines, are very popular in the rainforests in Costa Rica, and have become one of the major attractions in the last two decades. Caroline, Valerie, and I elected to complete the Selvatura course, which consisted of 18 platforms and 13 cables plus a "Tarzan swing" (free fall!). We all enjoyed it very much, and the views were splendid! The longest cable was a full kilometer! It was a great adventure; I will probably do it again before I leave because most of my friends have not done it yet. As I mentioned earlier, the rock climbing, hiking, and other outdoor activities have really made me want to do more adventurous things upon my return, so if anyone wants to join me, let me know!

For some reason, my helmet was crooked.

Ready for take-off!

You can't see it, but I'm grinning from ear to ear!

The last activity before we departed Monteverde was a quick trip to the Orchid Garden, which housed dozens upon dozens of different types of orchids. The highlight of that excursion was seeing the world's smallest orchid! I suppose some of the others were beauties as well! You can decide for yourself.

Gigantic metal orchid! 

Love the colors!

Spindly orchids!

World's smallest orchid!